"YOU USED TO FLY WITH AN EMBLEM ON YOUR CHEST, NOW YOU’RE ALL WASHED UP"
June 10, 2013
I tried paddling out into Tropical Storm Andrea
10 foot waves
After 3 hours I made it out there
With no chance of catching a wave
But I did get hammered back to shore.
And out of it, I gained the respect from my two new best friends
And last week I got to get barreled and surf 10 foot waves with one of them
I’m feeling pretty grateful